Drywall repairs come in varying shapes and sizes. From small dings and scratches to car sized holes as in a garage. Also, I often see dings where the door handle has made an impression on the wall (or maybe even a hole). To avoid this problem, install a door stop on the baseboard. This will prevent the door handle from coming into contact with the wall. Another thing I've seen is when a perfectly innocent section of drywall will fall victim to teenage rage. I really don't have a clear remedy for that, but I can help you repair the drywall!
People are often intimidated by doing the repair themselves for different reasons. Mostly because the tools and materials are unfamiliar and if they do try it, the job doesn't look right and they shy away from trying it again. These problems are easily remedied and I will cover everything you need to know to get a pro looking job. In this article we will talk about repairs up to 12" square and on a flat section of wall. Large areas and corners will be covered in another article.
First, look at the offending area. Determine whether or not the drywall is damaged all the way through. If it is not, or the hole is 6" in diameter or less, then you don't need to cut out a section. For this you will need a drywall repair plate. You don't need one of these plates if the damage is not all the way through. If the hole is all the way thought and more than 6" you will need to cut approximately 1" around the hole. Don't do it yet as I will explain.
Next go to your nearest hardware store or home improvement center. You will need a 6" taping knife, 1 gallon of joint compound, a sanding sponge (or 150 grit sand paper), a hawk and a utility knife are helpful items too. Don't be shy about asking for help at the store. If you are using a repair plate then that is all you need. If you are cutting out the section then you will need a piece of drywall. Some places sell 2'x2' sections. Call ahead to find out. Also get a drywall saw and drywall tape. Drywall tape isn't like regular masking tape. It comes in two different styles. Fiberglass mesh and paper. The fiberglass is easier to use but is not good for corners. For this discussion we will use the fiberglass mesh. You will need 1 1/4" drywall screws and a battery operated screw driver is helpful as well. Don't forget primer, paint and paint sundries!
If the hole is not all the way through then scoop some joint compound out of the bucket with the taping knife and smooth it over the area. Its Best to put too much on and then smooth it off lightly several times removing the extra from the knife each time. You can repeat this process as many times as you like to achieve the desired results. There should be approximately 1/8" of joint compound when you are finished. Don't worry if it's not perfect! This is only the first coat. Let it dry 24 hours. Put a fan on it if you can. If the compound is more than 1/8" thick, or if there is high humidity, it could take a couple of days to dry. If you want it to dry sooner, get the powder type of compound that you mix with water. Just remember that it can set up really fast! It is dry when it is hard and dry to the touch. Once the compound is dry, take your taping knife and lightly scrape the surface smooth. Then put on another coat. This time, lightly scrape the dry compound allowing the wet compound to fill in the gaps. Go all the way around the outside of the dry section making sure the edges are tapered flat. This is called feathering. The smoother you make it the less sanding you will have to do. A third coat is common and some pros will lightly sand in between the second and third coats. Give it a light, final sanding.
If you are using the repair plate, simply apply the plate according to the instructions that came with it and follow the above instructions for smoothing on the joint compound.
If the hole is 6" or bigger then cut a new piece of drywall, using the drywall saw, that is approximately 2" bigger than the hole . Next, hold the new piece on the wall making sure the hole is covered completely. Trace around the new drywall marking the wall. Cut the wall with the drywall saw making sure to leave approximately 1/8" gap around the new drywall. If you cut across a stud you may have to finish the cut with a utility knife. Cut two pieces of wood (1"x2" is good or whatever you have) about 4" bigger than the hole. Make a mark about 2" from one end of the wood. Put the wood behind the drywall about 2" from the edge of the hole and line up the mark with the edge of top of the hole. Put a drywall screw through the drywall into the wood on each end. Repeat for second piece of wood. Put the new piece in the hole and screw through the new drywall into the wood. Applying too much pressure can cause the previous screw to pull thought the drywall. Make sure the screw heads are barely below the surface. Apply the mesh tape over the gaps. Smooth the joint compound on over the mesh tape making sure to cover it completely. Do not feather the edges of the joint compound on the first coat. Follow the above instructions for finishing the joint compound. Once the repair is finished apply 1 coat of primer and 2 coats of paint.
Have a happy repair day!
More instructions at http://www.mikespillman.com/Howtodo
Mike is an expert at doing several different types of home repair and improvement projects. Tile, painting, doors, windows,carpentry, light pluming and electrical, cabinets, drywall, wood moldings, flooring...you get the idea. With his carry-around handyman work shop he has 100 percent customer satisfaction and has worked in many parts of the U.S. Mike can talk you through the project you want to do like no other. He is now ready to share his knowledge and experience with you. Sign up to recieve his free how-to-do e-mails, news letters, links and even ask for advice on your current or next home repair and improvement project.
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